John Stephen - A Forgotten Fashion Revolutionary? PS my sis actually bought a John Stephen dress from Vintage-A-Peel..it's the red velvet/white polka dot mini with the leg of mutton sleeves..gorgeous ! The latter was exhibited on its own at the V&A Sixties exhibition because there was no Stephen womenswear at all. thanks for sharing! Silk scarf by Liberty, 2gns. But you can take advantage of the internet, as many new labels have done. John Stephen, who had worked as a sales assistant at Vince, initially based his menswear shop, His Clothes, on Vince, selling the same tightness, the same rainbow colours, and the same element of camp. He was a very pleasant man. They wanted affordable clothing in a choice of colours, something that was unavailable at the time. North West London Jewish mods started going to Vince to buy white trousers and black sweaters, the left bank Paris look, and matelot shirts. John Stephen was born in Glasgow, Scotland on August 28, 1934. Sixties fashion designer and the king of Carnaby Street, the legenday John Stephen, brought flares into mens sixties fashion by adapting the trousers worn by sailors for mods, dandies and all followers of fashion in his Carnaby Street boutiques. The King’s Road legendary design entrepreneur Lloyd Johnson first encountered a group of Modernists as a 14-year-old attending a battle of the bands event in south London in 1959. I have a psychedelic print mini by him, and a (different print) psychedelic mob cap. The measurements point to these being around 32 inches around – that’s around the hips, not the waist. Here a traditional menswear textile, herringbone tweed, is used to create a pair of 1965 hip huggers Jacket in waterproof gaberdine by Valstar, £5 19s. It was particularly visible during last year's exhibition, Luckilly, the most recent publications about 1960's  fashion such as magnificent. 11d. Whereas Vince Man’s Shop, owned by Bill Green, imported expensive clothing bought by the Soho gay scene and celebrities, John Stephen concentrated on making fashion affordable, accessible and fun. When you were there, though, you knew the language. Clothes by John Stephen. He observed the explosion of Teddy Boy fashion and he had seen it for what it was - a beginning of an era where teenagers  would search for their own identity which they could express through clothing (unlike most of his contemporaries, who had seen it merely as a brief fad). That's all there was.....". Credit line: Given by the designer. "Did you ever dream about a place you never really recall being to before? Trouvez les Tailored Pants images et les photos d’actualités parfaites sur Getty Images. About that time, Private Eye was in Carnaby Street, and I sold them berets for Private Eye 'things' (they were above Gear - and I met a member of the Scaffold in there - brother of Paul McCartney - whilst waiting to see Richard Ingrams, the Editor). Click to share on Twitter (Opens in new window). The Kinks drummer Mick Avory and *friend, modelling outerwear by John Stephen. A place that maybe only exists in your imagination? His only downside was his "Hamlet" cigar habit! Stephen had learnt to cut in the military department of Moss Bross and was gaining experience as a salesman on a shop floor for a salary of £6 per week. Male West One - one of John Stephen's boutiques on Carnaby Street, 1966. Ps I offered him my help and it was rejected. 6d. John who was expected to take over the shop one day left home ten years ago to see what London had to offer. It wasn't that either. A fire at this shop necessitated a move to Carnaby Street - at the time a back street, behind Regent Street with not much going on. Small artisan makers were once hidden away, selling only to a local market. In my last post, I looked at the career of John Stephen - a true revolutionary of male fashion in the 1960's. Smashing Time - The Ultimate Swinging London Film. Photograph by Mike McGrath. Dec 5, 2016 - Scottish-born John Stephen, who was known as "The King of Carnaby Street,” was designing low-slung pants for men as early as 1956. Bizarrely, it only covers Stephen's life until 1969, so we don't find out anything about the downfall of his empire. Black sweater by Fantasia, 65s. But these days you can be small and sell big. They also had these madras jackets, madras cotton from India… John Stephen was working there at first and really just went round the corner and opened his own version of Vince's. No. Talitha Getty with her son Tara, 1968 It is not often that I do a post about a female fashion icon, but since I never wanted this b... Stash Klossowski De Rola , 1965 The name Stash Klossowski De Rola often gets a mention in various Rolling Stones biographies - a ... Syd Barrett, September 1967 What can be said about Syd Barrett that hadn't been said already? If yes, what places you advise?♥, love this post! John Michael Ingram, who has died aged 83, was the least flamboyant of the designers who created the male peacockry of 1960s England. Even though John was often in poor health his drive was still there and his passion for clothes shone through. By 1970 he was generally seen as terribly demode. His Clothes was born, and by 1967, John Stephen would have 15 boutiques in Carnaby Street Great post ! The Wikipedia has a two links that are no longer [404] . He appropriated some of the advertising tactics used at Vince's - drawings of musclemen, casually dressed James Dean lookalikes, etc. Towards the end of 1960's Stephen's designs moved on with the fashion once again  - in 1967 he started incorporating oriental elements in a spirit of hippie fashion. Corduroy jeans by Lee Cooper, 38s. Information is requested respecting John Brannan, late of Liverpool, ... medium build, fair complexion, fair hair, has a slight impediment in his speech, dressod in dark trousers and vest, and light-coloured blue shirt. Other than that, I'm not sure I know of many photos... That's the very book i was thinking of..a lot of his womenswear turns up in various Rave features too. Selling music, toiletries, and even wigs alongside clothing, he created the first lifestyle “concept” stores that still exist in the form of Colette in Paris and, on a larger scale, Urban Outfitters. Tie by John Stephen bought in Carnaby Street around 1967 (, Eastern-influenced hippie menswear by John Stephen (, Crochet tops and striped cotton skirt and trousers by John Stephen, 1965, John Stephen's groovy wigs, modelled by the man himself, 1968, John Stephen dressing one of his models. Stephen's star as a designer started fading in the late sixties. John Stephen was born in Glasgow in 1934. I've also had a couple of other pieces I've sold, but it's so scarce! While most men’s outfitters stocked the traditional uniform of jackets and trousers in greys and blacks, Stephen offered a wide range of young, often playful styles in daring colours. Selling handpicked women’s vintage clothing mainly from the 60s & 70s. As British menswear came into focus with such Soho boutiques as Vince Man’s Shop and the “King of Carnaby” John Stephen’s chain of outlets, so a new strain of sartorially aware youth emerged. Choose from a great range of Women's Trousers & Leggings. The suit is an example of the mod style that originated on Carnaby Street in London, when that city was the center of men’s and women’s fashion in … They both stocked hugely influential fashions that initially nodded to the mod aesthetic of bright, tailored minimalism. xx http://dazedandconfused1991.blogspot.com/, Great info. I also have the exact same view as yourself about the Jeremy Reed biography,i think to get the point of the John Stephen empire across properly..the definitive picture book would need to be published,something in the style of Boutique London by Richard Lester or my own particular favourite 'Boutique' by Marnie Fogg..a pure cover to cover pop/mod masterpiece is called for,and yes in full colour.. because John Stephen was all about colour !Totally agree with Miss Peelpants too,his contribution to womenswear has also been overlooked,i've been thinking about this for a long time,there is enough photographic evidence to prove that for every dandy outfit he designed there was a matching dolly one,but as Liz says it's so scarce,as is anything from Lady Jane,my conclusion is that the Carnaby St fashion scene was so fast paced,that people literally just wore the items a few times and moved on to the next thing because they were living in the moment. Stephen was into … The king of Carnaby Street, Sixties fashion designer, and the legendary John Stephen started flares into men’s sixties fashion by adjusting the trousers worn by sailors for mods, dandies and all admirer of fashion in his Carnaby Street boutiques. The owner, Bill Green, felt that, Stephen's enthusiasm, good looks and impeccable style would make him popular with customers. He came to London at the age of 18. Photograph by Mike McGrath. I started working for John Stephen in 1962. Free UK mainland delivery when you spend £50 and over. Hazy Dayz Vintage is personally sourced clothing for Gogo Girls & Boho Babes! If he would have bothered to do his research properly and the information is easily available the whole book could have been the definitive story of Golden Days Gone. in 1956, he started working at Vince - an avant-garde, and then uber-cool boutique situated in Newburgh Street ,which specialized in  selling quirky clothes to bohemians, homosexuals, and West End actors. One of his shops transformed in the evening into a drinking lounge called the Scotch & Soda bar. Soon I am flying to Greece and I will have a two-day shopping in Athens .. You were there ever? Vince - Small Boutique That Initiated Big Changes. Right: Beige gaberdine trousers by Alan Rodin, 3gns. Magazine - Psychedelia, Garage, Beat, Powerpop, Soul, Folk. In addition to his day job at Moss Bross, he worked as a night waiter at Forte's - a West End restaurant. collapse. Suit comprising a coat, jacket, waistcoat and trousers in worsted wool, designed and made by John Stephen, retailed in London, ca. Although large parts of it are interesting, it has a lot of considerable drawbacks. ♥Oh, nice post.)) Including a range of kaftans, elephant-cord trousers and velvet jackets, John Stephen clothes were pure peacock rock 'n' roll. He's often forgotten as a womenswear designer as well. Jeremy Reed's effort is a wasted opportunity.The reason why this is not very good is that once again a person who was never there has written our social history. They were all an amazing influence on my career and were "role models" of the highest calibre. Submit. Before his shop at Beak Street started breaking even, he managed to open another one thanks to courtesy of his landlord. Seeing Jimmy Page in the regalia of his early years has me looking ! The Peacock Revolution was a result of a momentum started in the late fifties by John Stephen. Then in 1967 I brought "I Was Lord Kitcheners Valet" to Carnaby Street and until I retired in 1999 I still supplied the boutiques of Carnby Street with merchandise. 1967. Hazy Dayz Vintage is part of Snoopers Attic located right in the heart of Brightons bustling North Laines. There's also the odd bootcut flare in stylish Elephant Cord to cast an eye over too! Found on E-bay. There is very little about Stephen's private life - his lifelong struggle with bi-polarity disorder is hardly mentioned. Out of Carnaby Street and onto eBay, this pair of 1960s John Stephen hipsters are well worth a look.. Unfortunately, the book does not do John Stephen justice. Stephen's star as a designer started fading in the late sixties. That was the sixties.... Mick Jagger and Keith Richards shopping at John Stephen's, 1965. Knitted tops, striped cotton skirt, and trousers, all by John Stephen, 1965. Label- John Stephen Carnaby StreetFabric- LeatherDetails- Beagle collar zip front jacket,side zip pockets, Elasticated fitted backVintage condition- Good, Vintage wearthroughout, Adds characterShoulders 15”Chest 34”Sleeves 23”Waist 26”-28”Full length 25” Skip to content. Love your blog!!!. Says John Stephen “My father’s mind boggles when he hears I’m giving the mills orders for things like £60.000 worth of trouser material …” His father has a corner grocery shop in Glasgow. You can’t just pop down to see John Stephen for the latest shirt or trousers today. Open an online store and you sell to the world. His success meant that cars struggled to drive through the crowds that gathered from across Britain and the world to swing their shopping bags down Carnaby Street, so the Greater London Council agreed to gradually close the street to cars from 1967 and make it fully pedestrianised by 1973. The New Psychedelics - a Revival That Never Was? I was selling crocheted berets and he ordered a lot from me, as he said he was about to set up a woman's boutique in Carnaby Street (the first one), and he wanted to feature my berets in his first new shop. Home Vintage Clothing expand. Suit by John Stephen from 1970 displayed in Victoria and Albert Museum. At that time, in 1958, Carnaby Street was just a gray back street of Soho - a home to a few tobacco shops and Central Electricity Board building. Early life. In 1975 he sold his company, which, by then was struggling with financial problems. Choisissez parmi des contenus premium Tailored Pants de la plus haute qualité. John Stephen & Carnaby Street – 1960s. Retro Clothing staples and in tune with the John Stephen Carnaby Boutiques! John Stephen was a genius and you're right, he doesn't get enough credit for his contribution to fashion. Stephen continued to use the same fabrics and colours, which were then adopted by other men’s clothing manufacturers as young men challenged conventions of acceptability and were … A wonderful man who shaped many lives in many ways. Much has been said about the impact of  1960's fashion designers such as Mary Quant or Barbara Hulanicki on female fashion, but John Stephen who was just as revolutionary in a field of male fashion, is usually being omitted from Fashion History. Interested in fashion, young John took up a job at Moss Bross in Covent Garden, a well-known tailoring establishment, which specialized in evening suits. Black leather jacket at the Separates Centre, 13½ gns. Now, I would like to devote a little space to Bill Green and his boutique called Vince (1954 - 1969). John Stephen opened his first shop in 1957 on Beak Street, selling hipster trousers and tab collar shirts. Shirt by John Stephen with typical for mid-1960's round collar. Desperate to open his own shop, Stephen worked double shifts to save enough money. In a late 2010, a biography of John Stephen written by Jeremy Reed was published. In order to fully understand John Stephen's role as one of the 'architects' of Swinging London, it is worth to take a brief look at his fascinating life. John Lewis Trousers & Leggings. Also, the images are black and white (which seems strange in a book about the designer who was famous for introducing colour into male clothing) and there is no name index or bibliography at the end. The founder of the John … Photograph by Mike McGrath. Recognising that trends changed quickly, Stephen changed his stock every few weeks to keep ahead. Suit by John Stephen from 1970 displayed in Victoria and Albert Museum. However, ambitious Stephen had seen Vince merely as a stepping stone in his own career. Stephen's biographer, Jeremy Reed writes that: ". I love other 60s blogs! He was designing colourful kaftans, decorated with beads, tunics and foppish dandy outfits , inspired by Regency fashions. Including Wide Leg Trousers, Cropped Trousers, and Black Trousers. I met John Stephens in 1963/1964. Career. Deborah De Lacey and Mick Avory. If there is something that you would like removed please contact me and I will do so. 6d. These images are not intended for any commercial purpose. John Stephen, who died in February last year, is credited with creating Carnaby Street, building an empire of 15 fashion boutiques there with his business partner Bill Franks. Many musicians and celebrities shopped in his stores over the years, including The Beatles, The Rolling Stones, The Who, The Kinks, David Bowie. At 20, Tommy had matinee idol looks that he parlayed into a brief career modelling for John Stephen’s boutiques in the early 1960s. By 1970 he was generally seen as terribly, Suit  by John Stephen from 1968 (University of North Texas collection). Talitha Getty - Icon of 1960's Hippie/Bohemian Style, Prince Stash Klossowski De Rola - 1960's Peacock Style Icon, Lord John, Mates Boutique and post-1966 Carnaby Street, Dr. Schluss' Garage Of Psychedelic Obscurities, Shindig! He graduated from high school and took a vocational trade. Close search. Another of John Stephen's best sellers was of course the hipster trouser which Atom Retro has in abundance in the form of cool and classic Hipster Flares (in both cord and denim). In 1957, with a help from his new business associate, Bill Franks, Stephen managed to open his own shop at 19 Beak Street. A year after John Stephen died in 2004, his achievements were remembered when a commemorative plaque was unveiled at Number 1 Carnaby Street, the site of one of his shops. It seems today, that John Stephen is a slightly forgotten figure. John Stephen Biography, Life, Interesting Facts. For Sale on 1stDibs - John Stephen of Carnaby Street Men's Patchwork Corduroys Flared Pants, 1960s Size: Marked 36 but seems to have been taken in, the waist is now 34" 1970 . But it didn't suit me at all, so I'm VERY glad it's gone to a good home.There's a LOT of photos in the Barbara Bernard book too, mainly Mick Avory and a model wearing his'n'hers John Stephen gear. If you plan on wearing the, you’d better still have the figure for it. The mini-skirt. 11d. Coffee coloured knit sweater by John Craig, approx, 69s. Left: Art Nouveau print trouser suit in heavy linen by Hilary Floyd, 14 … John Stephens is an American television producer, screenwriter and director best known for his work on The O.C., Gilmore Girls and Gotham. His early designs were not million miles away from those of Bill Green - they included hipster trousers, multi-coloured denim, as well as tab-collar shirts in colours such as peacock blue, foggy-gray or pink. Within the next six years, thanks to Stephen, it would become an epicentre of London's fashion world. Chukka boots in tan and pink leather by Roland Keith, 99s. Click the ACCEPT button to use cookies or click Read More for additional info. Thanks for the history! John Stephen was a Savile Row tailor whose innovative work in men's fashion earned him the nickname "the King of Carnaby Street." You knew your way around. I am glad to learn of this . John Stephen moved from Glasgow to London and started working at Moss Brothers where he identified the emerging market of young men with money to spend. This website needs cookies to work correctly. It was just '66 and early '67. Carnaby street in 1966 - at the height of Stephen's career. Some place far away, half remembered when you wake up. Ohhh I was so sad to see that one go. Whenever anyone thinks of Swinging London in the 1960s, the first thing that probably comes to mind is Carnaby Street, the hub of youth fashion during the period. he was not comfortable with a formal atmosphere of Moss Bross and he spotted the absence of outlets selling modern clothes for youth in London. Stephen's Domino Male and Trecamp on Carnaby Street, 1966. :)http://60smodfox.blogspot.com/, Thanks for following!I love everything about your Blog so Just going for a read of moreFollowing you right back xx. Designers Mary Quant and John Stephen were pioneers of this new form of retail, both opening their stores in the mid-50s. The second shop was located at 5 Carnaby Street. I do not own, or claim ownership, of any of the images or articles within this blog, unless otherwise indicated. John Stephen, the fashion designer, who has died aged 69, was "the King of Carnaby Street" in the 1960s, when his clothes, which were worn by … I had the pleasure of working for John and his partner Bill franks along with Frank Merkell when they owned the franchise for Lanvin in the UK. Physical Description: Suit comprising a long double-breasted coat, a jacket (worn as an alternative to the coat), a waistcoat and trousers, all in grey and blue worsted wool. He grew up and went to local schools in Glasgow. His men’s ‘mini-kilts’ were amongst the more outrageous. Stephens attended Pomona College, graduating in 1994. . John Stephen was a British clothing designer who became famous for dressing The Rolling stones in the 1960s.. Background. In the mid-1960's , after John Stephen's success, Carnaby Street became a gold mine for fashion retailers. Shop one day left home ten years john stephen trousers to see that one go Texas )! 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